KUMPIR AT ORTAKOY
- Ortaköy kumpirciler meydani
CORLULU ALI PASA
An 18th-century madrasah tea garden, Çorlulu Ali Paşa is a few steps from the Beyazit tramway stop. During the day you’ll find older men from the mosque next door in the vibrant, smoky courtyard flipping through wrinkled newspapers as a sheesha haze envelops them. By night, the vine-covered, lantern-lit area is filled with tiny wooden chairs scattered around knee-level tables, as a younger crowd chats, smokes and drinks. The madrasah itself has two entrances and numerous Oriental trinkets can be purchased therein.
- Yeniçeriler Caddesi 36/28, Beyazit, +90 212 519 2341. Open daily 7am-2am
PRINCESS ISLANDS – KINALIADA
PRINCESS ISLANDS – BUYUKADA
Known to the Greeks as Prinkipo, Büyükada (Big Island) is indeed by some margin the largest of the Princes’ Islands, and a long fayton tour around it costs TL 60, a shorter version TL 50. It’s home to the very finest late 19th and early 20th century houses, best seen on Çankaya Caddesi, which runs to the south and west of the main settlement/quay, and the Greek Orthodox Monastery of St. George, perched atop a steep hill towards the south of the island. The ascent will test the fittest cyclist (great bikes available from Trek, at 23 Nisan Caddesi, just behind the quay), but there are donkeys available for the idle. There’s a welcome cafe, the Yücatepe Kır Gazino, next to the monastery. The island is only some 14 kilometers around, and reasonably level apart from the ascent of Yücetepe.